Overview
The Spiny Flower Mantis (Pseudocreobotra wahlbergii) is the species that taught a generation of mantis keepers about deimatic displays. Native to eastern and southern Africa, this small mantis (5 cm female, 4 cm male) sits inconspicuously among foliage at rest — and when threatened, throws its wings open to expose two enormous spiral eyespots — a green-and-black target on each forewing (each roughly a “6”) that reads as the eyes of a much larger predator.
It’s a nervous species and uses the display readily. Many keepers consider this a feature.
Husbandry is beginner-friendly if you respect one quirk: Spiny Flowers come from a drier biome than most exotic mantises and prefer 40–60% humidity. Soak this species and it gets fungal infections fast. Otherwise it’s an easy keep.
What a nymph actually looks like
L1–L3 nymphs are jet black and mimic ants. No spiral eyespot, none of the cream and yellow — the entire reason most people buy this species is invisible for the first few molts. The eyespots develop as the mantis grows and are unmistakable by mid-instars. A black nymph in the cup is exactly what you ordered.
Enclosure
Solo housing only. Cannibalism is severe in this species.
- L1–L2: 32-oz deli cup, mesh top, dry coco fiber substrate.
- L3–L4: 64-oz cup or 5×5×7 inch acrylic.
- L5+: 6×6×9 inch minimum, 8×8×12 ideal.
Mesh top + at least one screened side wall for ventilation. Stagnant air is more dangerous to Spiny Flowers than to wetter-biome species — it traps humidity that this mantis didn’t evolve for.
Decor: silk flowers (especially yellow/black mimicking the threat display), thin twigs for perching, cork bark. For a full walkthrough of substrate, ventilation, and decor, see our praying mantis terrarium setup guide.
Temperature & humidity
Target 78–85°F daytime, 70–75°F nighttime, 40–60% humidity.
Heating: a low-wattage CHE on a thermostat. They’re more heat-tolerant than Orchids and will sit comfortably at 85°F.
Humidity: this is the make-or-break. Light mist every other day — not daily. The substrate should look mostly dry between mistings. Never let the substrate stay damp for more than 24 hours.
Keep misting even in a humid room. Those droplets are how the mantis drinks — it takes water off the mesh and foliage, not from a dish. If your room already sits above 65% RH, mist lightly enough to leave droplets without wetting the substrate, and open up the ventilation instead.
A digital hygrometer is essential.
Diet & feeding
Not a picky eater. Spiny Flowers take flies, moths, and appropriately-sized dubia roaches — no need to tweezer-feed a roach, they’ll grab it on their own. We don’t feed crickets to any of our mantises (see why):
- L1–L2: Melanogaster fruit flies. 4–6 per feeding, every 1–2 days.
- L3–L4: Hydei fruit flies. 4–5 per feeding every 2 days.
- L5: Houseflies, bottle flies. 2–3 per feeding every 2–3 days.
- L6–L8 / Adult: Bottle flies, moths, small dubia roaches. 1–2 prey items every 3–4 days.
The rule behind the list: keep prey to no more than a third of the mantis’s body length. The species above are what we feed, but you’ll meet insects we haven’t named — a moth off the porch light, an oversized dubia, whatever the shop had. Size is what decides whether it’s safe, not what it is. Err smaller: a too-small prey item is a non-event, a too-large one risks injury. Our feeding guide has the sizes worked out centimetre by centimetre.
Rotate feeders for variety — this species isn’t fussy about what it takes.
Lifecycle & molting
Females reach maturity after 7 molts (adult at L8). Males after 6 molts (adult at L7). Total nymph time: 3–4 months at 80°F, then an adult stage of about 4–6 months for females and 3–4 months for males — roughly 8–11 months from hatch overall. For how this compares across species, see our praying mantis lifespan guide.
Premolt signs:
- Refusal of prey for 24–36 hours
- Hanging upside-down on a perch
- Slight darkening of the abdomen
Molts are quick. Failed molts in this species are usually a humidity issue — too low, surprisingly. Even though Spiny Flowers want a drier environment overall, the molting period itself benefits from a brief humidity bump. Mist the enclosure walls (not the mantis) if you see a premolt animal. If a molt goes wrong, our guide to praying mantis molting problems covers what to do.
Sexing
Reliable by L4–L5:
- Females: 6 (sometimes 7) abdominal segments from below, the terminal segment as wide as those before it. Larger overall body, especially the abdomen.
- Males: 8 abdominal segments, the last few tapering narrower. Slimmer, faster, with proportionally longer antennae and wings that extend slightly past the abdomen at L5–L6.
The eyespot patterning is similar in both sexes — don’t sex by markings.
Breeding
Pair adults at least 14 days post-final molt, female well-fed.
- Place female in a 12×12×12 inch enclosure with multiple perches.
- Feed her 2 days before introduction.
- Introduce the male slowly, from behind, on the same perch.
- Pairing lasts 6–12 hours.
- Separate immediately after.
Cannibalism risk during pairing is high — this is the hard part of breeding this species, not the keeping. Have a backup male, and don’t introduce him to a female who isn’t actively eating. The technique that works is giving her a large prey item at the moment you introduce him, not feeding her heavily two days before: what protects him is her being busy right now. Females lay 1–4 oothecae, each yielding roughly 30–50 nymphs (occasionally more) at 80°F and 60% humidity, hatching in 4–8 weeks (sometimes up to 10).
Ready to buy a Spiny Flower Mantis? We breed Pseudocreobotra wahlbergii year-round in Las Vegas. See current availability →
Related species: prefer a communal beginner option? Read the Ghost Mantis care guide or shop Ghost Mantis. Ready for an advanced challenge? See the Orchid Mantis care guide and shop Orchid Mantis.
Common issues
- Sudden death with abdominal blackening: fungal infection from over-misting. Reduce humidity, increase ventilation. Often fatal once visible.
- Refusing prey: usually premolt. If it’s not, try a different feeder or offer when the mantis is actively perched and alert.
- Failed molt: bump humidity briefly during premolt. Ensure perch height is at least 3× body length.
- Constant threat displays at owner: the species is naturally nervous. Approach the enclosure slowly. They get less reactive as adults but never fully tame.
Frequently Asked Questions
My Spiny Flower had a failed molt — but I keep it dry like the care sheet says. Why?
This is the classic Spiny Flower trap. They want a drier enclosure day-to-day, but the molt itself still needs moisture — and failed molts in this species are almost always humidity that’s too low. When you spot premolt, give a modest, stable humidity bump (mist the walls, not the mantis) and make sure it’s hydrated going in. Then leave it alone. More in our molting guide.
Why are the eyespots so prominent?
They’re a deimatic (“startle”) display. The mantis flashes the wings open when threatened to mimic a much larger predator’s eyes. It’s evolved specifically against bird predation in the wild.
Can I trigger the threat display safely?
Yes — gently breathe near the enclosure or wave a hand. The mantis suffers no harm from a brief display. Don’t repeat constantly; chronic stress shortens lifespan.
Mine has bumpy projections on its body. Is that normal?
Yes. The “spiny” part of the common name refers to small thorn-like projections along the legs and pronotum. They’re protective camouflage, not a health issue.
Do Spiny Flowers need higher temps than Ghost Mantises?
Slightly, yes. They thrive at 80–85°F where Ghosts are happy at 75. Both can handle 78°F as a middle ground.