Overview
Caring for the African Twig Mantis (Popa spurca) is simple because it is the species we recommend to first-time keepers more than any other. Widespread across sub-Saharan Africa, P. spurca is a bark-and-twig mimic that combines three traits the typical home keeper actually wants:
- Dry-air tolerant. 40–50% humidity is fine. No misting routine to worry about. New to the hobby? See our roundup of the best pet mantis for beginners.
- Food-aggressive. Active hunters, will chase prey and accept a wide variety of feeders.
- Long-lived. 8–12 months is typical, sometimes longer.
Adults reach about 7–8 cm with a slim, twiggy build. Both sexes look broadly similar — males slightly slimmer, females slightly stockier. The species displays a subtle threat posture (raised front legs, body twisted) but it’s nothing dramatic; this is a working species, not a showpiece.
If you have never kept a mantis, this is the right starting point. Move on to Orchids, Dead Leaves, or Spiny Flowers once you’ve raised an African Twig from L2 to adult.
Enclosure
Solo housing past L3. Younger nymphs can be housed communally if prey is dense; separate as soon as size differences emerge.
- L1–L2: 32-oz deli cup, mesh top.
- L3–L4: 64-oz cup or 5×5×8 inch acrylic.
- L5+: 6×6×10 inch minimum. Adults are happy in 8×8×12.
Substrate: dry coco fiber, paper towel, or even bare floor with a few twigs. They evolved in arid scrub — don’t try to make this a rainforest.
Decor: thin twigs and bark pieces. The species camouflages by mimicking branch texture; give it branches to mimic. Silk leaves are unnecessary.
Ventilation: mesh top is sufficient.
Temperature & humidity
Target 72–86°F, 40–50% humidity. Most homes hit this without supplemental heat or humidification.
If your home runs cold (below 68°F), add a low-wattage CHE on a thermostat. They tolerate the upper end (mid 80s) without stress.
Humidity: a brief light mist twice a week is enough. Spraying a few droplets on a perch gives them drinking water; full enclosure misting isn’t required. Don’t over-mist this species — fungal issues are rare but possible if substrate stays damp.
Diet & feeding
Will accept almost anything alive that fits in the strike zone:
- L1–L2: Melanogaster fruit flies. 5–7 per feeding, every 1–2 days.
- L3–L4: Hydei fruit flies, small houseflies, pinhead crickets. 4–5 per feeding every 2 days.
- L5–L6: Houseflies, bottle flies, 1/4 inch crickets, dubia nymphs. 2–3 per feeding every 2–3 days.
- L7+ / Adult: Bottle flies, moths, 1/2 inch crickets, medium dubia. 1–2 prey items every 3 days.
Active hunters: they’ll stalk and chase prey rather than ambush. Feed responsibly — overfeeding produces obese adults that struggle to molt.
Lifecycle & molting
Females: 8 instars. Males: 7 instars. Total nymph development: 4–6 months. Adult stage: ~4–7 months after the final molt, for a total lifespan of roughly 8–12 months from hatch (females ~10–12, males ~8–10). For how this stacks up against other species, see praying mantis lifespan by species.
Premolt signs are obvious:
- Refusing prey 24+ hours
- Hanging upside-down for hours
- Often a slight darkening of the body
Molts are reliable in this species. Failed molts are uncommon and almost always traceable to insufficient hanging height — if you do run into trouble, our guide to praying mantis molting problems walks through the fixes.
Sexing
Reliable by L4:
- Females: 6 abdominal segments visible. Slightly stockier abdomen.
- Males: 8 abdominal segments. Slimmer overall, longer antennae proportionally.
Size difference at adulthood is mild — both sexes ~7–8 cm. Don’t sex by length.
Breeding
One of the easiest species to breed.
- Pair adults 14+ days post-final molt.
- Feed the female 1–2 days before introduction.
- Introduce the male in a 10×10×12 or larger enclosure.
- Pairing lasts 4–8 hours.
- Separate after.
Cannibalism risk is low to moderate; backup males rarely needed but don’t hurt.
Females produce 2–6 oothecae across their adult life. Each yields roughly 20–40 nymphs at 78–82°F and 50% humidity, hatching in 4–6 weeks.
Ready to buy an African Twig Mantis? We breed Popa spurca year-round in Las Vegas. See current availability →
Common issues
- Sluggish, refusing food: check the temperature. Below 68°F they slow down dramatically.
- Failed molt: insufficient hanging height. Increase enclosure vertical space.
- Obese adult: overfeeding. Drop to 1 prey item every 4 days for 2 weeks.
- Communal cannibalism (early instars): food density too low. Add more fruit flies, or separate.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is the African Twig considered the easiest exotic mantis?
The combination of dry-air tolerance, broad temperature range, broad diet acceptance, and long lifespan. Nothing else in the trade lines up across all four.
Will it bite me?
Mantises don’t really bite — they grab with the front legs. P. spurca is fast and food-aggressive, so a finger that smells like prey can get grabbed. Wash hands before handling. The “bite” is harmless.
Can I keep multiple African Twigs together as adults?
No. Communal works only at very young instars and only with dense food. Separate by L3.
How does this compare to a Ghost Mantis?
Both are excellent beginner species. Ghost is communal-tolerant, prefers slightly higher humidity, and has a more striking leaf-mimic appearance. African Twig is drier-tolerant, more food-aggressive, and lives slightly longer. Many keepers start with one of each.